This doesn’t mean he’s putting soy sauce in the sweet potatoes or oven-frying the chicken. Newer and sleeker restaurants have sprung up as the neighborhood steams ahead with residential development, and Harlem’s culinary renaissance got a shot in the arm last year when the Cecil, a sleek and creative Asian-African restaurant nearby, made several best-new-restaurants lists.īut while oxtail dumplings and Mexican-Ethiopian chicken (served at Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster Harlem nearby) are good to have around, it’s a relief any time someone picks up the fraying thread of traditional Southern food in New York and tries to make it right. These places were more than diners, but not quite restaurants if the term “soul food” still held any meaning in 21st-century New York City, they were its repositories. ![]() Louise’s Family Restaurant’s fish and grits, gone. It would take more than my fingers and toes to count the classic Harlem joints that have closed in recent years, taking their Southern specialties with them to the grave.
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